Dolley Madison Fabric Swatch, Handsomely Presented

A lace fabric swatch from a gown worn by and belonging to 4th U.S. First Lady Dolley Payne Madison (1768-1849), with superb provenance. The swatch appears in a floating mount under a reproduction of the First Lady's 1804 portrait by Gilbert Stuart and a copy of the provenance. The 4" x 3.55" triangular swatch is cream lace comprised of four rows of oval medallions and netted borders. Expected wear includes isolated discoloration. This fabric sample is accompanied by a copy of provenance inscribed: "Worn by Dollie Madison. Presented by a relative of hers to the museum." Matted to the overall size of 10.5" x 19".

Provenance: Estate of Gene H. Baber, Fishersville, Virginia; Collection of Mary "Mollie" Zeiler Zerkle and Lemuel Zerkle, Luray Museum, Luray, Virginia

Dolley Madison was renowned as an early nineteenth-century American fashionista. At 5'6" with black ringlets and blue eyes, Dolley had a statuesque frame that the Empire-style clothing of the era only accentuated. The North Carolina-born former Quakeress wore plainer clothes on a daily basis but dressed magnificently for state occasions. She had impeccable taste, and actively employed clothing to legitimize the presidency. Indeed, a large portion of the Madison budget was reserved for acquiring Dolley's clothes and accessories in America and Europe.

This particular fabric sample came from the Luray Museum of Luray, Virginia. This museum, started by town resident Mary "Mollie" Zeiler Zerkle (1845-1933), safeguarded artifacts of mostly local interest. According to family history, nineteen-year-old "Mollie" nursed Union soldiers after the 1864 Battle of New Market. She married Lemuel Zerkle and eventually relocated to Luray in 1890. Local historian Daniel Vaughn reported that the museum operated between 1938-1960, after which point the collection was sold at auction.

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