Native American, United States, Plains Tribes, likely Comanche or Lakota (Sioux), ca. mid to late 19th century CE. This is a fascinating piece of Native American formal wear that combines European fashion - a beaver fur top hat - with decorative elements of brass, wool, glass beading, and feathers added by the wearer. The hat is made from a black beaver fur, the interior lined with white silk and stamped with the emblem for the London maker Henry Heath, and above the ink stamp are raised golden initials "RMO" for the owner. The exterior is a colorful and textural enrichment of the otherwise plain hat. Around the base of the crown is a leather band that is hand stitched with glass trade beads in white and blue, above is a red wool panel that is embellished with brass discs sewn in two rows. The top of the hat is pierced, and a leather cord holds a bunch of blue dyed feathers. Size: 11" L x 9" W x 6.5" H (27.9 cm x 22.9 cm x 16.5 cm)

Lakota tribal leaders visiting Washington DC to discuss peace treaties to resolve conflicts during the Sioux Wars were presented with European style clothing and hats from politicians, such as top hats like this example. The hats were considered too plain and so they were adorned with additional hand-crafted pieces to represent Native American culture to symbolize identity and leadership.

Provenance: private Glorieta, New Mexico, USA collection

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#168720

Feathers are very stiff with some fraying and bending of forms. Interior silk lining has tearing and fraying, but maker label is discernable and intact. Missing interior silk sweat band liner and the manufacture serial numbers on the cardstock are visible. Patina to the brass ornaments and staining and discoloration to the red textile and fraying to the edges. Discoloration and mineral deposits on beads. Beading is well preserved with one area near the end of the leather band missing a thread of beads, but the rest are intact and secure.