Native American, Western United States, Plains Tribes, likely Comanche or Lakota (Sioux), ca. mid to late 19th century CE. This is a fascinating piece of Native American formal wear that combines European fashion with decorative elements added by the wearer. The hat is made from beaver fur with a silk interior - manufactured in Europe with a lion and gold emblem over "Deutsche Mode" (German Fashion). The exterior is adorned with a pink silk ribbon trim and silk yellow tassel on the crown. At the front is a 87.9% silver Masonic order pendant with a square, compass, and a crescent moon in the center. A 88.8% silver brooch, with a rectangular face is pined to the side and suspended from the brooch is a USA half dime minted in 1853, pierced and strung on a cotton cord. A black feather is tucked behind the brooch, completing the handsome hat. Size of hat: 11.125" L x 9" W x 7" H (28.3 cm x 22.9 cm x 17.8 cm); interior brim opening: 7.75" L x 6.75" W (19.7 cm x 17.1 cm); silver quality: 87.9% to 88.8%

Lakota tribal leaders visiting Washington DC to discuss peace treaties were presented with European style clothing and hats from politicians, such as this top hat. The hats were considered too plain and so they were adorned with pieces to represent Native American culture to symbolize identity and leadership. Freemasonry expanded into the western parts of the United States in the mid 19th century and established grand lodges and subordinate lodges, which were powerful groups during pre-statehood periods. Due to the forcible relocation of many tribes to "Indian Territories," Native Americans were the majority memberships in the Masonic lodges in western states such as Oklahoma, and prominent Native Americans were even elected as Grand Masters and created their own Masonic lodges.

Provenance: private Westminster collection, Westminster, Colorado, USA acquired 2020

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#168242

Age expected wear. Interior silk is stained and discolored with fraying and losses to brim silk covering. Hat is indented and slightly mishappen. Losses to fur around crown. Some age related discolorations. Some fraying to cotton cord that dime is strung on and the feather is slightly frayed. Patina on mason symbol and brooch, but both are intact and very good. Wearable as shown.