Roman, Imperial period, ca. 1st to 3rd century CE. A dazzling gold earring featuring an openwork rosette adorned by 2 dangling emerald beads flanking a polished pearl. Displaying a sweeping, swan neck hook on the verso, the rosette presents 12 petals with 2 leaves below that suspend the emeralds and pearl via gold wire. A lovely, rainbow iridescence embellishes the pearl while each brilliant green emerald features a hexagonal form, beautifully complemented by the natural banding and striations of the stone. A stunning ornament, embodying all the opulence of the Roman empire! Size: 2.1" L x 1" W (5.3 cm x 2.5 cm); of custom box: 2.5" L x 1" W x 3.25" H (6.4 cm x 2.5 cm x 8.3 cm); of emerald bead: 0.3" L x 0.2" W x 0.2" H (0.8 cm x 0.5 cm x 0.5 cm); gold quality: 87.99% (over 21 karats); weight: 6.2 grams

The Romans were known for their love of gemstones, especially emeralds and pearls. The precious materials used to manufacture this earring originated from different far-flung regions of the ancient world. While gold was mined in a number of Roman provinces (mainly Britain, Spain, Dalmatia and Dacia), emeralds, amethysts, and pearls were imported from the East. Though gold was the most highly valued metal, emeralds were one of the most valued stones in antiquity. They were prized not only for their rich green color and connections to fertility, but also for their perceived healing properties. According to Pliny the Elder, Roman jewelers would often sooth their strained eyes by looking at or through emeralds while they worked.

The value of emeralds however paled in comparison with that of pearls. The petite pearl that dangles between the earring's large emeralds would probably have drawn the most attention from Roman viewers. Pearls, or margaritae, were imported from India and the Persian Gulf, and were esteemed both for their uniqueness (no two are alike) and their brilliance, which was far greater than that of the uncut diamonds worn by the Romans. They were also associated with Venus, the Roman goddess of love and beauty, who was believed to have been born from the sea. Though the emeralds in this example may surpass the pearl in both size and number, it is the pearl that establishes it as the true height of luxury.

Before Alexander?s Eastern conquests in the late fourth century B.C.E., precious stones were not widely available in the Greek world. Greek jewelers prized themselves on their mastery of metalworking and used precious stones only sparingly. An important change in the design of ancient jewelry takes place, however, in the Roman period. Here we see the effects of this shift firsthand: while the earring is certainly striking, its beauty derives from the combination of precious materials and the presence of large emeralds and pearls. Close examination of the structure of the earring highlights the unfinished appearance of the gold, clearly pointing to the jeweler?s preoccupation with emphasizing the gemstones.

Provenance: private Cripple Creek, Colorado, USA collection; ex-Nemesis Ancients and Antiquities

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#184194

Accompanied by custom display box. Some light bending to floral motif and wires with possible minor loss at end of wire holding pearl. Some small nicks to surfaces of emeralds with earthen encrustations commensurate with age. Otherwise, intact, excellent, and wearable with nice preservation of form.