Five Haute Couture & High Fashion Designs:Henriette Favre, House of Beer & Lucien Lelong, 1890-1920s

Each of the five items in this lot have condition issues.

THE FIRST
Pink silk taffeta and silver net lace dress. The dress is cut with a scoop neckline and short sleeves. The full dress is gathered into the waistline with swags of pink silk attached to the skirt by the silver thread floral appliqued and embroidered panels. The dress is sewn to a wide inner waistband that features the designer label.
Label: Beer / 7 Place Vendome Paris / Nice Monte-Carlo
Hand-writte Number on above lobel: 83687
Approximate Measurements:
Shoulders: 19"
Chest: 30"
Waist: 28"
Hips: 40"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 51"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 14"

THE SECOND
Black silk velvet cape embellished with black silk taffeta floral embroidery. The shoulder section is made with a cream silk section that is trimmed with panels of black thread embroidery. The cape is lined with cream silk.
Label: Beer / 7 Place del, Opera Paris

Approximate Measurements:
Shoulders: 18"
Length: 40"

THE THIRD
Black crepe flapper sheath richly embroidered with sequins and beads. The sheath is cut with a deep scoop neckline, sleeveless, and with square panels that hang to the hem.
No Label

Approximate Measurements:
Shoulders: 12"
Chest: 26"
Waist: 28"
Hips: 30"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 37"

THE FOURTH
Sleeveless pink chiffon flapper dress with Art Deco emrbroidery in glass beads, rhinestones, and metallic and silk thread. The dress is further embellished with hanging panels of self fabric from the body and also in sleeve 'capelets' over each arm. The dress has been extensively conserved with inserts of material that have been dyed to match.
There is a very similar dress to this one featured in a Lucien Lelong ad found here: https://glamourdaze.com/2017/08/1920s-fashion-modes-from-paris-1928.html
Label: No label, attributed to Lucien Lelong

Approximate Measurements:
Shoulders: 13.5"
Chest: 30"
Waist: 32"
Hips: 32"
Length: 44"
THE FIFTH
This dress is made of a bodice, skirt, underbodice, and petticoat. The bodice and skirt are made of a yellow silk crepe that is embellished with glass beads, pearls, and silk fabric embroidery in a floral pattern and with 'swags' of glass beads that actually dangle when worn. The bodice is heavily boned with an inner waistband that features the designer's name. The skirt features darts into the waist and has a sweeping train. The underbodice is made of net and is trimmed with the same embroidery as the bodice and skirt and has a high boned neckline. The petticoat is shattered and is stored separately from the ensemble.
Label: Henriette Favre / Rue de la Paix. 5
Size Label or Serial Number: Unlabeled
Approximate Measurements:
Bodice
Shoulders: 15"
Chest: 34"
Waist: 22"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 12"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 16"

Underbodice
Shoulders: 11"
Chest: 24"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 12"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 11"

Skirt
Center Front Length: 41"
Center Back Length: 57"
This lot is located in Chicago.
Deaccessioned by the Valentine Museum to benefit collections care, preservation, and future acquisitions.

Condition:
THE FIRST
The overall condition is poor as the shoudler and around the arms are splitting.
THE SECOND
The overall condition is poor with splitting in the fabric lining throughout.
THE THIRD
The overall condition is fair with a split down the center back from the neck. Additionally, there are several areas of loose or lost embroidery. Outside of the one split in the fabric at the center back neck, the fabric is stable and most of the embroidery is secure.
THE FOURTH
The overall condition is poor with many areas of damage and loss that have been conserved by a professional at some point in the past. A slip was also made for this dress and is stored with the piece.
THE FIFTH
The overall condition is poor as the lining and parts of the bodice were made with a silk that is now shattered. The underbodice is in the best condition of all parts as this part is made with the least amount of the "weighted silk".
Everything is sold 'As Is’. The stated overall condition of the lot is based on the assumption that the wear is consistent with age and use. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections, or the effects of aging. All other condition issues are stated above. To request additional working condition photos, please email Hindman's Couture & Luxury Accessories department with the lot number. Condition is a matter of opinion of the evaluator and should not be treated as a statement of fact. Clients must review and agree to the Conditions of Sale before participating in an auction.