Central Asia, Afghanistan, Turkoman, ca. late 19th to early 20th century CE. A gorgeous antique gilt silver bracelet comprised of a single horizontal register of 4 ovoid carnelian stones set in silver bezels amidst a fire-gilded ground that is engraved with beautiful curvilinear motifs. The raised borders framing the band are also incised with diagonal, cord-patterned motifs, while a gilt scrolling pattern adorns the peripheries. A set of 3 petaloid terminals embellish each end of the band. Size (of bracelet): 2.8" L x 1.1" W (7.1 cm x 2.8 cm); Size (of wrist opening): 2.2" W (5.6 cm); silver quality: 88%; weight: 85 grams

Fabulous jewelry like this was a hallmark of elite men and women in the Turkoman society. Powerful people wore the items they commissioned or gave them as diplomatic gifts to rulers and elites in other countries as a way of showcasing the wealth of their own region. Jewelers worked on commissions from the richest members of society, obtaining precious metal from various mountains in the area, including Ferghana and the Zartalash east of Tashkent. Jewelers worked with a variety of different precious and semi-precious stones, also sourced from far afield. Artisans in cities like Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent kept alive metalworking traditions once common in the medieval period long after Europeans lost them.

Provenance: private Hawaii, USA collection, acquired from 1995 to 2010; ex-Beverly Hills collection, Los Angeles, California, USA

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#168301

Wearable as shown. Minor abrasions to bracelet and carnelian stones, with light fading to gilding in some areas, otherwise intact and very good. Wonderful patina throughout. Collection label on interior of band.