Central Asia, Turkmenistan and Afghanistan, Turkoman (Turkman) Tekke peoples, ca. 19th century CE. A striking gilded silver bracelet consisting of three horizontal registers adorned with incised scrollwork motifs and 9 carnelian oval inlays of fiery red hues. The silver is of high quality (90% silver) and much of it is graced with passages of gilding (comprised of up to 50% gold), making for a golden glow that contrasts with the exposed silver of the raised borders and 14 spikes that line the opening, 7 on either side. Size: 3.3" L x 2.875" W (8.4 cm x 7.3 cm); opening measures 2" L x 2.625" W (5.1 cm x 6.7 cm); carnelian stones (all about the same size) measure .625" W x .375" H (1.6 cm x 1 cm); total weight: 196.6 grams. Precious metal quality: 90% silver with gilded areas of up to 50% gold

Beautiful jewelry like this was a hallmark of elite members of Turkoman society. Powerful people wore the items they commissioned or gave them as diplomatic gifts to rulers and elites in other countries as a way of showcasing the wealth of their own region. Jewelers worked on commissions from the richest members of society, obtaining precious metal from various mountains in the area, including Ferghana and the Zartalash east of Tashkent. Jewelers worked with a variety of different precious and semi-precious stones, also sourced from far afield. Artisans in cities like Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent kept alive metalworking traditions once prevalent during the medieval period long after Europeans lost them.

Provenance: private Hawaii, USA collection, ex Beverly Hills, California, USA collection

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#140977

Wearable. Minor abrasions and indentations to some areas, with fading to gilding along some areas - though much remains. Minor scuffs/nicks to stones, otherwise intact and very good. Minor indentations to bezels and expected surface wear to other precious metal areas. Overall very nice and silver/gilt silver has developed a warm patina over time.