Central Asia, Turkmenistan and Afghanistan, Turkoman (Turkman) Tekke peoples, ca. 19th century CE. A striking gilt silver bracelet consisting of 3 horizontal registers adorned with 8 carnelian and 1 glass oval inlays of fiery red hues surrounded by incised scroll motifs. Lustrous passages of gilding further embellish the exterior, making for a golden glow that contrasts with the exposed silver of the raised borders and 22 spikes that line the opening, 11 on either side. Size (of bracelet): 3.5" L x 2.8" W (8.9 cm x 7.1 cm); Size (wrist opening): 2" W (5.1 cm); quality of silver: 76%; total weight: 207.2 grams

Beautiful jewelry like this was a hallmark of elite members of Turkoman society. Powerful people wore the items they commissioned or gave them as diplomatic gifts to rulers and elites in other countries as a way of showcasing the wealth of their own region. Jewelers worked on commissions from the richest members of society, obtaining precious metal from various mountains in the area, including Ferghana and the Zartalash east of Tashkent, as well as a variety of different precious and semi-precious stones, also sourced from far afield. Artisans in cities like Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent kept alive metalworking traditions once prevalent during the medieval period long after Europeans lost them.

Provenance: private Hawaii, USA collection, acquired from 1995 to 2010; ex-Beverly Hills collection, Los Angeles, California, USA

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#168303

Wearable as shown. Center inlay of row near smaller opening has been replaced with glass. Minor abrasions and indentations to some areas, with fading to gilding along some exterior areas, otherwise intact and very good. Great patina throughout. Old inventory label within interior curve.