Madison Dolley

Dolley Madison Fabric Swatch from Her Gown


Handsomely presented fabric swatch from gown worn by and belonging to 4th U.S. First Lady Dolley Payne Madison (1768-1849), with superb provenance. The swatch appears in a floating mount under a reproduction of the First Lady's 1804 portrait by Gilbert Stuart and a copy of the provenance. The overall matted size is 10.5" x 18.25".


The 4.75" x 1.75" textile is cream lace comprised of four rows of oval medallions and netted borders. Expected wear includes isolated discoloration. This fabric sample is accompanied by a copy of provenance inscribed: "Worn by Dollie Madison. Presented by a relative of hers to the museum." The Luray Museum was founded by the Zerkle Family of Luray, Virginia in the early 1900s; it closed its doors in 1960.


Dolley Madison was renowned as an early nineteenth-century American fashionista. At 5'6" with black ringlets and blue eyes, Dolley had a statuesque frame that the Empire style clothing of the era only accentuated. The North Carolina-born former Quakeress wore plainer clothes on a daily basis, but dressed magnificently for state occasions. She had impeccable taste, and actively employed clothing to legitimize the presidency.


Dolley cultivated her quasi-regal First Lady status by dressing in sumptuous materials like silk and velvet. Her gowns were adorned by lace trim, ruffles, rows of tiny buttons, pearls, and ermine. Dolley wore feathered turbans, carried fans, muffs, and scarves, and accessorized with diadems, necklaces, belts, and other jewelry. Dolley's fashionable clothing awed observers accustomed to rough fabrics, dark colors, and provincial styles.


A large portion of the Madison budget was reserved for acquiring Dolley's clothes and accessories in America and Europe. Two of Dolley's most famous dresses can still be viewed at the Smithsonian Institution and the Greensboro Historical Museum. Dolley's yellow silk satin open robe embroidered with insects, flowers, and phoenix can be seen in the First Ladies Collection, while a reproduction of her French-made red velvet ball gown with cap sleeves can be seen at the Greensboro Historical Museum (the original is in storage).


This fabric sample came from the Luray Museum of Luray, Virginia. This museum, started by town resident Mary "Mollie" Zeiler Zerkle (1845-1933), safeguarded artifacts of mostly local interest. According to family history, nineteen-year-old "Mollie" nursed Union soldiers after the 1864 Battle of New Market. She married Lemuel Zerkle, and the two lived in New Market, Virginia until 1890. That year, the family relocated to Luray, fourteen miles east across the Massanutten Mountain range, where Lemuel had secured a post as Superintendent of Luray Caverns. Local historian Daniel Vaughn reported that the museum operated between 1938-1960, after which point the collection was sold at auction.


Gene H. Baber of Fisherville, Virginia was an avid antique collector. His collection included everything from Civil War letters to epaulettes, from early frakturs to vintage wind-up toys.


Provenance: Estate of Gene H. Baber, Fishersville, Virginia; Collection of Mary "Mollie" Zeiler Zerkle and Lemuel Zerkle, Luray Museum, Luray, Virginia


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