Illario For Bulgari: Diamond Bangle/triple-clip Brooch, Circa 1935 - Sep 21, 2022 | Bonhams In England
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ILLARIO FOR BULGARI: DIAMOND BANGLE/TRIPLE-CLIP BROOCH, CIRCA 1935

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ILLARIO FOR BULGARI: DIAMOND BANGLE/TRIPLE-CLIP BROOCH, CIRCA 1935
ILLARIO FOR BULGARI: DIAMOND BANGLE/TRIPLE-CLIP BROOCH, CIRCA 1935
Item Details
Description
ILLARIO FOR BULGARI: DIAMOND BANGLE/TRIPLE-CLIP BROOCH, CIRCA 1935
Of geometric and scroll design, set throughout with old brilliant and single-cut diamonds with baguette-cut diamond accents, the central circular openwork brooch between detachable scroll clips, the clips convertible as terminals to a bangle of matte finish, bangle signed Bulgari and maker's mark CIF for Carlo Illario e Fratelli, all with maker's mark 26 AL for Illario (including fittings), one diamond deficient, diamonds approximately 15.00 carats total, detachable single brooch and triple-clip brooch fittings, lengths: each clip 3.0cm, circular brooch 4.5cm (11.0cm total as a triple-clip brooch), bangle inner diameters 5.0cm x 6.5cm
Footnotes:
The 1930s was a period in which major jewellery houses were creating exquisite and masterful jewels, however the Wall Street crash of 1929 tempered the taste for opulence and these transformable jewels were a useful tool for persuading buyers of the worthwhile expense. This example can be worn as a triple clip brooch, the scroll terminals detaching to be worn as clips or attaching to a bangle, effectively creating four different jewels, justifying its own luxury with function. This archetypal jewel is a wonderful example of combined technical skill and the creative flair required for this period.

For design drawings of similar examples by Cartier, see Rudoe, J., 'Cartier 1900-1939' (London, 1997), p. 330-331.

The firm of Carlo Illario e Fratelli was founded in 1920 and produced jewels for Bulgari throughout the mid-20th century, including their iconic Serpenti watch bracelets, a favourite design of Hollywood actress, Elizabeth Taylor.
Condition
Overall in very good condition for age.
Diamonds estimated as G/H/I, VS-SI (mostly VS).
The brooch and scroll clips stamped PT and each with Italian assay mark for Illario, set in untested white metal but marks indicating platinum.
The bangle with light surface wear. Signed Bulgari, maker's mark CIF for Carlo Illario e Fratelli, Italian assay mark for Illari and stamped 750, set in untested white metal but marks indicating white gold.
The fittings each stamped 750 and with Italian assay mark for Illario, set in untested white metal but marks indicating white gold.
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  • 26% up to £700,000.00
  • 20% above £700,000.00

ILLARIO FOR BULGARI: DIAMOND BANGLE/TRIPLE-CLIP BROOCH, CIRCA 1935

Estimate £25,000 - £35,000
See Sold Price
Starting Price £20,000
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Item located in London, England, uk
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Bonhams

Bonhams

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