TIFFANY & CO. 18K Gold, Enamel, Diamond, Ruby, Demantoid Garnet, Open Face Pendant Watch
likely designed by Paulding Farnham; ca. 1893; the white porcelain and enamel dial with painted black enamel Arabic numeral indicators, gold dots, and silver stars, with gold filigree hands; the open-work case depicting a dragonfly inset with 10 circle-cut rubies and 21 full-cut diamonds; gold cattails, flowers, and lily pads revealing the guilloche green enamel cuvette; enclosing a manual wind movement numbered 109809; signed on dial, inside cuvette, and movement; inside cuvette numbered 63947; suspended from a detachable brooch with an open-work butterfly design set with an old European-cut diamond and two circle-cut demantoid garnets; accompanied by a bale decorated by rose-cut diamonds; gross: 22.83 dwts.; case dia. 1 1/16 in.; lg. 2 3/4 in. (with brooch); in a fitted box

Literature: Loring, John, Tiffany Timepieces, Harry N. Abrams (2004), similar illus. pg. 119.


Other Notes: This pendant watch is a striking example from the series of Louis XV – XVI revival watch covers designed by Paulding Farnham for Tiffany & Company's exhibit at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago. The Exposition, which celebrated the 400th anniversary of Christopher Columbus's arrival in the New World, was one of the famed World's Fairs of the late 19th/early 20th century. These expositions were an international stage for leading designers and luxury retailers to introduce their creations to the world, and only the best of the best was put on display. Paulding Farnham was one of Tiffany's top designers, metallurgists, and enamellists during this era. His style and skill are embodied by this series of watch covers, which were embellished with colorful guilloche enamel with flora and fauna themed gold overlay inset with diamonds and colored stones. These intricate pieces were widely celebrated, and Tiffany & Company won a medal for Farnham's finely designed watch cases at the 1893 Chicago Fair.