South Asia, Northern India, Rajasthan, Mughal Empire ca. 19th century CE. A spectacular jade Holdali pendant, the frontal face is inlaid with precious gemstones within high quality gold embellishments. Mughal jewelry generally uses the highest of karats - here, the gold is 95.62% (equivalent to 22K+); the gold is skillfully applied over a lac resin core, imparting a distinctive raised effect. The pendant features 5 rubies, 4 emeralds, and 6 diamonds, each cut in the polki style, preserving their natural form. These gems are embedded in Kundan settings, gold foil is added under the stones to intensify their color! The nephrite jade, known as "mutton fat" for its distinctive color, is cut into a arabesque shape, with loops threaded through the drilled top. This pendant is wearable and could be easily strung on a chain or cord. The craftmanship of this piece is a combination of Islamic and Indian Hindu artistic practices that came together under the Mughal empire. Size: 1.59" L x 1.32" W (4 cm x 3.4 cm); gold quality: 95.62% (equivalent to 22K+); weight: 16.5 grams

Highly prized in Asia for its reputed healing properties, this jade Holdali pendant is not only a dazzling work of wearable art but also worn over the heart for protection. When the Mughals conquered India from Central Asia, they brought the technical skills of setting gems and incorporated the traditional Indian styles of goldwork - including Kundan - into their jewelry that contained Middle Eastern elements - such as intricate floral patterns and heavy stonework, as seen here. Kundan stones (Kundan meaning "highly refined gold") is the traditional North Indian Rajasthan way of setting gemstones in a gold foil between the other stones, and the pure molten gold helped achieve the tight setting. Jewelry was a crucial part of visual authority for Mughal rulers, and strategic marriages between Mughal royalty and members of Rajput aristocracy were often arranged - for both political reasons and Rajasthan's renowned jewelry production. In order to enforce their high social status, the Mughals passed Sumptuary Laws that decreed only members of the upper class could wear opulent jewelry.

Provenance: private Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA collection, acquired at auction November 30, 2016; originally purchased in Rahasthan, India in 1989

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#184155

Choice. Some wear to the surface, a few minor nicks to the gold but otherwise intact and excellent. Wearable!