Haroldo Burle Marx (Brazilian, 1911-1991), ca. mid to late 20th century CE. A remarkable free form (forma livre) emerald ring by mid-century designer Burle Marx, the band is brushed gold; 75% to 78% gold (equivalent to 18K to 18K+). Free form is a lapidary technique that was pioneered by Haroldo Burle Marx in the late 1940s; the gemstone is both carved and tumble polished- developing the organic spiral and gentle ripple surface seen here. The face of the stone measures 1" L x 0.75" W (2.5 cm x 1.9 cm) and stands about 0.4" H (1 cm) above the bezel lip. Set in a brushed shank, the interior is stamped "BURLE MARX / 750" on one side and gold hallmark "IND BRAS GB 701." This is a wearable and bold signature style cocktail ring! Free hand (not pre-cast) means that no two pieces are exactly alike. Size of shoulders: 1.14" L x 0.83" W (2.9 cm x 2.1 cm); band opening: 0.59" Diameter (1.5 cm): US Ring size: 4; gold quality: 75% to 78% (equivalent to 18K+); weight: 23.1 grams

Haroldo Burle Marx (1911-1991), was a Brazilian luxury jewelry designer and gemologist- often commissioned by the government and privately to make pieces for dignitaries and celebrities (notable clients include Placido Domingo, Natalie Wood, The Shah of Iran, Nelson A. Rockefeller, and Queen Margrethe of Denmark). He is distantly related to Karl Marx- his family immigrated to Brazil from Germany in the 1890s, and he is also the younger brother to famed landscape architect, Roberto Burle Marx (1909-1994) and to pianist and composer, Walter Burle Marx (1902-1990). The siblings were one referred to as "the most amazing and talented brother act in Brazil." Haroldo studied gemology and gemstone cutting in Germany, apprenticing for several years before opening his own workshop in Rio de Janeiro where he designed and oversaw the production of each piece employing expert gem cutters, goldsmiths, and engravers, making each work unique.

Provenance: private Santa Fe, New Mexico, USA collection; ex-Palm Beach, Florida, USA collection

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#182791

Pre-owned condition with light wear to stone and gold band, minor nicks to stone and rubbing to band surface. Otherwise intact and great condition. Wearable! Clearly hallmarked on interior of band.