19th C. Patola Saree, India. Silk. Good antique condition, minor holes, backed with silk net. Size: 3'6'' x 12'0'' (107 x 366 cm). This exquisite Patola saree hails from Gujarat in West India. Patola refers to the renowned double ikat textiles produced in India, highly esteemed both locally and abroad, particularly in Indonesia. The intricate ikat method involves tying and dyeing the yarn before it's woven, resulting in characteristic bleeding edges between colors. Notably, ikats exhibit identical patterns on both sides. Among ikats, warp ikat is the most common, while weft ikat is less prevalent. Double ikat, where both warp and weft yarns are tie-dyed, represents the pinnacle of complexity, requiring meticulous alignment of each yarn.The Patola tradition owes its presence in Gujarat to the Silk weavers of the Salvi caste, who originally hailed from Karnataka and Maharashtra. They brought the Patola technique with them when they settled in Gujarat. Legend has it that these skilled weavers journeyed to Gujarat in the 12th century, seeking the patronage of the Rajputs who ruled over the region, including parts of Malwa and Southern Rajasthan, with Patan as its capital. Patola silk was a preferred attire of the rulers for special occasions, elevating its prestige. Consequently, Patola sarees soon became a symbol of social status among Gujarati women and girls.The weaving of a Patola saree is an intricate and laborious process involving only two individuals. A mere four to six inches of fabric is woven in a day, emphasizing the painstaking coordination required between threads on both axes.

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