Brocade Kinkhab, India, Early 19th C. Silk, 2 kinds of silver thread, and gold ribbon. Size: 55'' x 29'' (140 x 74 cm). The word kinkhab is derived from Persian and loosely translates to “golden dream”. Kinkhabs are the rarest and most precious heavy brocades from India. Workshops producing these brocades were in Gujarat, Maharashtra and best of all, in the city of Varanasi. They were used to make heavy ceremonial robes, furnishings, and hangings. What makes kinhkab distinct is the heavy use of gold and silver thread, sometimes rendering the silk background almost indistinguishable. These brocades are classified according to the amount of gold and silver used. Some are woven entirely from the two precious metals; in others, colored silk thread is used sparingly to accent the design. The stunning design of this kinkhab has a rose gold ground with large double ogee vines in silver. Extending from the silver vines are crowns and various flowers and leaves in gold. Protruding from the vines are purple leaves and large palmettes with small circular flowers in silver. Small edges of some of the leaves are pink and the entire vine is outlined in purple. The bottom of this kinkhab is decorated with a row of paisleys, flowers, and leaves in rose gold. All four selvedges intact. Continuous and discontinuous supplementary weft.

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