Assembled Victorian Gold and Diamond Parure
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Description
Assembled Victorian Gold and Diamond Parure
composed of early- to mid-19th-century elements, all silver-topped 14-karat gold, including a necklace with graduated and articulated segments of ribbons suspending trefoils, set with reduced collet- and bead-set mine-cut and rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 19.70 carats in total, attached to a later 14-karat white gold chain with filigree plaques, l. 16-1/4", a pair of clip back earrings in the form of floral sprays with bead-set rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.50 carats in total, l. 1-1/2", and a brooch, also in the form of a floral spray, prong- and bead-set with rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.12 carats in total, and three pearls, l. 2-3/4". total weight 97.8 grams
Notes: This unusual set illustrates the long tradition of modifying jewelry to conform to current fashion. The earrings here, for instance, probably began as sprays on a late Georgian corsage brooch set "en tremblant" - fitted on tiny springs so that they would tremble and glitter in the candlelight - later adapted to earrings with modern "omega" backs. The brooch, too, was probably from a similar, but slightly later corsage brooch or stomacher. The necklace was almost certainly the central part of a convertible suite which would have included an intricate frame to which it could be mounted and worn as a tiara, as well as a diamond-set chain to extend it for wear as a necklace (the current chain likely an early 20th-century replacement).
composed of early- to mid-19th-century elements, all silver-topped 14-karat gold, including a necklace with graduated and articulated segments of ribbons suspending trefoils, set with reduced collet- and bead-set mine-cut and rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 19.70 carats in total, attached to a later 14-karat white gold chain with filigree plaques, l. 16-1/4", a pair of clip back earrings in the form of floral sprays with bead-set rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.50 carats in total, l. 1-1/2", and a brooch, also in the form of a floral spray, prong- and bead-set with rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.12 carats in total, and three pearls, l. 2-3/4". total weight 97.8 grams
Notes: This unusual set illustrates the long tradition of modifying jewelry to conform to current fashion. The earrings here, for instance, probably began as sprays on a late Georgian corsage brooch set "en tremblant" - fitted on tiny springs so that they would tremble and glitter in the candlelight - later adapted to earrings with modern "omega" backs. The brooch, too, was probably from a similar, but slightly later corsage brooch or stomacher. The necklace was almost certainly the central part of a convertible suite which would have included an intricate frame to which it could be mounted and worn as a tiara, as well as a diamond-set chain to extend it for wear as a necklace (the current chain likely an early 20th-century replacement).
Condition
The necklace is not missing any stones. As noted in the description, the necklace was likely part of a convertible suite and shows signs indicating this. On the top, central diamond, there is a place where something has been removed, probably where it had a device allowing it to be connected to a tiara. The void was filled with lead solder and filed. There are a couple of slight bends in the four-stone drops at the bottom of the necklace. There are six locking collars on the back of the necklace that were also likely used to convert the necklace. Three of them have been replaced by lead solder, not visible on the front of the necklace. The brooch is not missing any stones. There is one pearl that has a hole in the back, that has been filled and is likely a replacement. One earring is missing two stones. The brooch and earrings with lead solder on the back, indicating later modifications.
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Assembled Victorian Gold and Diamond Parure
Estimate $6,000 - $9,000
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