[westwood Vivienne]: (1941-2022) - Mar 15, 2023 | International Autograph Auctions Europe S.l. In Malaga
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[WESTWOOD VIVIENNE]: (1941-2022)

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[WESTWOOD VIVIENNE]: (1941-2022)
[WESTWOOD VIVIENNE]: (1941-2022)
Item Details
Description
[WESTWOOD VIVIENNE]: (1941-2022) English fashion designer closely associated with Malcolm McLaren and the Sex Pistols. Westwood was largely responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the mainstream. An extremely rare original Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren designed 'Anarchy Shirt', the pale pink dyed cotton Wemblex shirt (size Medium) with hand-painted darker pink and pale blue stripes, featuring the stencilled slogans Only Anarchists are Pretty to the front and No Future to the right arm, two further fabric patches stitched to the shirt, both with hand-painted statements and quotations, including Every Punk has the right to be Stupid!, a further silk patch featuring the image of Karl Marx, an original God Save The Queen Sex Pistols badge pinned to the front, and an original Chaos armband loosely attached to the left arm with a safety pin. The shirt dates from around 1976-77 and features a label to the inside stating Malcolm McLaren Vivienne Westwood Seditionaries Personal Collection. A wonderful original piece of punk fashion from the King's Road Seditionaries boutique which ran from December 1976 to September 1980. There are no obvious signs of previous wear. VG Provenance: Acquired by our vendor from a Bonhams Entertainment auction held in Chelsea on 13th September 2001 (lot 374). A detail of the shirt was used on the front cover of the auction catalogue (an annotated copy of which is included with the lot) and their catalogue description stated that 'This shirt is considered to be the definitive Westwood/McLaren item and possibly the rarest'. The 'Anarchy Shirt' has been described as 'the visual equivalent of the music made by McLaren's charges the Sex Pistols; jarring, violently expressive and an act of collage representing an exciting and scrambled manifesto of desires'. Indeed, Glen Matlock and Steve Jones wore original variants of the shirt during the Sex Pistols' first live television performance in August 1976 when they performed Anarchy in the U.K. The writer and biographer of Malcolm McLaren, Paul Gorman, discussed the 'Anarchy Shirt' in an interview with the impresario in May 2013. McLaren declared 'I was working towards the idea of the Anarchy Shirt but in the event only made three or four' and Gorman's article continues 'Amid the surplus stock held at McLaren and Westwood's flat in south London were boxes containing 50 or so deadstock shirts bearing the 60s Wemblex brand brought by McLaren from an east London warehouse…..Westwood experimented with adapting one of these by adding paint stripes and showed it to McLaren, who suggested violent dyes and patches containing inflammatory slogans….', McLaren also telling Gorman 'Vivienne and I turned the shirts inside out, hand-painted each with dyes, stencilled slogans and attached specific hand-made patches…..Using my son's stencil we adorned them with slogans such as 'Only Anarchists Are Pretty'…..so that they took on the look of something disorderly and uncared for. Each shirt took four or five days to complete….As well as layering the stencils to increase the impact, Vivienne and I came up with Mao-style red armbands declaiming 'Chaos' and I attached silk patches of Karl Marx I had discovered in shops in Chinatown…..I chose him because his book started the Socialist and workers' movements in the 19th century. Also Vivienne and I liked his beard…..He represented a great significance and was important to us because he lived in London at one point'.
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[WESTWOOD VIVIENNE]: (1941-2022)

Estimate €3,000 - €4,000
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Starting Price €3,000
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