Callot Soeurs Dress and Slip, 1920s


This Callot Soeurs design is one of six in this sale that is from the Palmer family. Five of the Callot Soeurs in this sale were worn by Pauline Kohlsaat Palmer (1882-1956) who was a known client of the House of Callot Soeurs. The child’s dress in this sale by Callot Soeurs was worn by one of Pauline Palmer’s daughters.
Pauline Kohlsaat Palmer (Mrs. Potter Palmer II) was born and raised in Chicago, the daughter of a newspaper editor, and a leader in Illinois Republican politics. She married Potter Palmer II, the son of one of the leading families in Chicago, director of the First National Bank and president of the Art statutete of Chicago. When he died in 1943, he left Pauline an estimated 4.5 million dollars. She donated many couture garments, including additional Callot Soeurs and Vionnet, to the Chicago History Museum.
Pink silk short sleeve dress with scoop neckline, embroidered with gold-tone thread and pearl beading, and hand-made lace hem. Slip is made of satin and features bands of embroidery around the hem.
Label: Callot Soeurs Paris
Size Label: Unlabeled
Style/Serial No.: 59927

Approximate Measurements:
Shoulders: 20.5"
Chest: 35"
Waist: 37.5"
Hips: 40.5"
Length (high shoulder point to hem): 41.5"
Sleeve (center back neck to hem): 18.5"
This lot is located in Chicago.

Condition:
The overall condition is good with the following: The overall condition of the slip is good, while the top is in poor condition with several condition issues, such as the following: Structural Issues: Throughout the exterior of the top, there are splits in the fabric as the silk is brittle, especially around the shoulders and the center fronts with some of the gold-thread embroidery is beginning to come loose. Split/Seperated Seams: The lace trim along the sleeves is beginning to seperate, primarily the left sleeve. Losses: Several areas of lost pearls and thread from ear. Fading/Color Change: On the interior, there is soiling troughout the top trim of the slip. Soiling/Spots: On the front exterior of the slipi, there are small spots throughout, primarily on the center front, right above the lace, and just below the neckline. There is also spots throughout the lace detailing. Insect Damage: N/A Corosion/Tarnish: There is darkening to the gold-tone threads throughout. Repairs/Alterations: N/A
Everything is sold 'As Is’. The stated overall condition of the lot is based on the assumption that the wear is consistent with age and use. The absence of any reference to the condition of a lot does not imply that the lot is in perfect condition or completely free from wear and tear, imperfections, or the effects of aging. All other condition issues are stated above. To request additional working condition photos, please email Hindman's Couture & Luxury Accessories department with the lot number. Condition is a matter of opinion of the evaluator and should not be treated as a statement of fact. Clients must review and agree to the Conditions of Sale before participating in an auction.