South Asia, Northwestern India, Mughal Empire, ca. 19th century CE. This is a stunning Mughal pendant made of high-quality gold inlaid with green glass and Kundan stones of white topaz and rubies! The piece is cast into a semicircular shape, the flat panel verso containing 3 band loops and a pendant bail for suspension as a belt or turban piece. The front is then decorated with 40 white topaz cut and faceted into diamond shapes, 8 petite rubies along the lower edge, and 14 pieces of green glass - all in the Kundan type of setting. The stones are arranged with a crescent at the center, flanked by two birds. The amazing craftmanship of this piece is a combination of Iranian Islamic and Indian Hindu artistic practices that came together under the Mughal empire. Mughal elites adored precious stones, not just for their beauty, but also for protective and magical properties that they believed each stone possessed. Size: 3.24" L x 0.15" W x 1.5" H (8.2 cm x 0.4 cm x 3.8 cm); gold quality: 91.31% to 91.82% (equivalent to 21K+ to 22K+); total weight: 63.6 grams

When the Mughals conquered India from Central Asia, they brought the technical skills of setting gems and incorporated the traditional Indian styles of goldwork - including Kundan - into their jewelry that contained Middle Eastern elements - such as intricate floral patterns and heavy stonework, as seen here. Kundan stones (Kundan meaning "highly refined gold") is the traditional North Indian Rajasthan way of setting gemstones in a gold foil between the other stones, and the pure molten gold helped achieve the tight setting. Jewelry was a crucial part of visual authority for Mughal rulers, and strategic marriages between Mughal royalty and members of Rajput aristocracy were often arranged - for both political reasons and Rajasthan's renowned jewelry production. In order to enforce their high social status, the Mughals passed Sumptuary Laws that decreed only members of the upper class could wear opulent jewelry.

Provenance: private San Francisco, California, USA collection

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#168393

Intact and choice. Light patina within recessed areas between Kundan stones. Minor surface nicks to some topaz stones, but all are secure and intact. Some minor chips to gold foil setting around the stones. The pendant bail and bands on verso are intact and this piece could be strung and worn.