Native American, Pacific Northwest, United States or Canada, Haida or Tlingit peoples, ca. early to mid-20th century CE. A beautiful handmade wool felt and beaded satchel, with an appliqued abstract motif in red velvet highlighted with glass seed beads and abalone shell buttons. These materials are used in traditional clothing known as "button blankets," which this bag is styled after. The rectangular body has red silk panels over the seams, a flap and button closure, and a twisted cord strap with dangling tassels. The front velvet appliques are arranged in curvilinear patterns that are outlined with white seed beads and abalone buttons. The design reminds us of a beaked head in profile when seen as a whole, or three people in a boat under a crescent moon. The blue felt was likely acquired from Hudson's Bay Company trade stroud, which Northwestern tribes transformed into ceremonial robes and other items, that came to be known as button blankets. This bag is a wonderful example of this traditional form! Size: 12" L x 10" W (30.5 cm x 25.4 cm)

Robes, chilkats, and ceremonial capes were traditionally worn by Northwestern tribes to denote rank and clans, and before European contact, theses were usually made from hide, woven cedar bark, or even dog hair. In the 19th century the Hudson Bay Company traded many wool blankets with the coastal tribes and these plain blankets were transformed into the ceremonial and dancing regalia with the addition of buttons, appliques, beads, and emblems of family or clan affiliation. This bag is a fine example of this style that would undoubtable be carried to such an event to store personal items.

Provenance: private Alamo, California, USA collection, before 2000

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#167570

Perforations and losses to threads and fibers from old insect activity and pilling to felt. Discoloration from age and use on blue felt and rope strap. Light mineral deposits on the shell beads. Beading and buttons are all intact and secure.